A Short Trip to Hambledon Lock

Hidden away in the small village of Aston in Berkshire is Hambledon Lock. One of many locks along the Thames, it is open to the public free of charge and even has a free car park situated a couple of minutes walk away.

My girlfriend and I went to the lock after a few days of heavy rain and the water levels were uncharacteristically high. The higher water level made the cascades even more dramatic than usual. Hambledon Lock is a good place just to stand for a while and watch the water flow. On sunny days there are often artists and writers perched along it taking in the scenery and listening to the sounds of the water.

It doesn’t take long to walk across the interconnected bridges of the lock and cross over the river. Once at the other side you can head off in whichever direction you wish along the calmer stretch of the Thames. Hambledon’s surroundings are a little less dramatic than the cascades of water and consist of pretty fields and small areas of woodland. On a sunny day it’s perfect for a leisurely stroll along the river.

Today was a little wet to go traipsing across the farmland and due to the high water level much of it was flooded anyway. However, it did allow for a dramatic sky filled with clouds and rich colours.

The short stop over, we wended our way back along the metal bridges and out of the lock. Hambledon Lock may not seem the obvious choice for a visit but it is free and is the perfect place to start walks along the Thames from. If you are in the Berkshire area it’s well worth a look.

One Day In Brighton

I had never been to Brighton before and with the weather being uncharacteristically good my girlfriend and I decided to make the trip. Getting up at stupidly-early-o’clock to beat the traffic we arrived at around 7.30 am.

The first thing to do in any UK seaside resort early in the morning is to find a decent place for breakfast. Luckily for us we there was as café nearby. Every seaside resort has the café run by the good old local boy.

It was still early and, as Brighton is a late waking town, very quiet. We strolled along the pebbly beach front in the sunshine trying to ignore the many workman drilling holes in the road. Brighton is a unique looking place that could only be in England. Heading down to the marina revealed expensive boats and a promenade of fancy restaurants designed to make the rich fish that owned them bite. The city gradually began to wake up and we headed back to the pier.

Brighton pier is very much an old fashioned British pier filled with all sorts of amusements, rides and food stalls. The wooden boards underfoot conjured images of old movies and people dressed in stripped bathing costumes.

Walking away towards the old Brighton pier, which sadly burned down, I came across a long line of small galleries well worth spending a few minutes in. There are also a number of pieces of interesting art around the beach. The sun was high in the sky and we paused to sit on the pebbles and listen to the sea. It’s easier to make yourself comfortable on the pebbles than you might think and the way the beach is set it keeps all the noise of the town away.

After our rest bite we headed into the town to look around the cities fabled ‘Lanes’. These are a group of winding narrow streets with various different shops. It was more enjoyable to look around than a charmless shopping centre. There are a number of unique trinket shops here and it is well worth checking out if you are interested in antiques and things of their ilk.

On the way back towards the seafront we took a look around the grounds of the city hall. Brighton’s city hall is, oddly, designed like it was meant to be standing as some grand structure in India.

Our time was up and after another short stay on the beach it was time to head home. Brighton is a unique place and while it may have the image of being a bit old fashioned it is actually very interesting. It’s well worth making a trip if you have never been and want to head for somewhere a little different.

Final Thoughts on Iceland.

I wasn’t sure what to expect from Iceland and it really is a unique place. It certainly isn’t for everyone and the weather can be very hostile even if you have taken proper precautions. However, it’s certainly a must see destination for anyone who likes mountains, lakes and rugged landscapes.

The lava fields are incredible and Gullfoss falls and the Geyser fields are truly astounding. It’s also a great place to relax with the Blue Lagoon being one of the most tranquil and beautiful places I have ever been.

I would urge caution for anyone planning on going there and renting a car to travel around. Outside of Reykjavik can be very dangerous. The country has regular earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and fissures and hot springs burst through the earth on an almost daily basis.

It is incredibly important to pay attention to any warning signs you see. Every year tourists get in trouble because they drive up closed roads or jump into hot springs without realising the dangers. You must respect your environment here or you will get hurt.

On the brighter note there has never been a better time to go. Due to its financial collapse the ISK has taken a bit of a pounding and works out at good value against the pound. Food can be found at reasonable prices as well. Make sure you don’t need to buy clothes though as a simple bobble hat will set you back around forty-five pounds.

Tourism is about the only strong industry left in the country. Despite Gordon Brown implementing a terrorism act against them we found everyone relieved that people were in the country spending money. If you really want to get on their good side then buy one of the many ‘Brown is colour of poo’ T-shirts that fill the shops on the high street.

Language is also not a major problem with most Icelandic people speaking English better than we do. I found the people to have a wonderfully dry sense of humour and be very welcoming. Iceland is also one of the cheaper options if you are looking to try and see the Northern Lights. If you are looking for a real adventure in Europe then this could well be the place for you.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Gullfoss and Geyser.

Earlier, at the parliament lake we had noticed a large cloud beginning to dominate the sky. Now we were driving towards it and it wouldn’t be long before the clear blue would be gone. We drove further and further up into the mountains until all the ground around us was covered in snow and ice. The sky had clouded over but it wasn’t as bad as I feared and couldn’t mask the beauty of our surroundings.

After a long drive we arrived at the Gullfoss waterfall. Here, the Hvita River gushes over a double drop to create a two level cascade. It was very cold and the powerful spray coming off the falls was freezing. Gullfoss, was one of the things I had come on the trip to see. Unfortunately, the steep path down to the falls was frozen and with only a rope barrier to hold onto. My girlfriend and I decided against getting to close.

We admired the falls from a distance for as long as the temperature would allow us before we retreated to a nearby restaurant. It was bugging me that from wherever we stood I couldn’t get a clear view into the valley. I was determined to see where the water was flowing so decided to do something stupid. Heading back to the falls I began to traverse the slippery slope down to it. My girlfriend almost lost her bag and decided to give up. Clinging on to the guide rope for dear life and losing my footing with every step I made it to the bottom. Looking down into the valley was amazing.

Getting back up the slippery slope was exhausting but in the end I made it. Our next destination was the Strokkur Geyser which erupts around every five minutes. Before entering the Geyser field we were warned that people have fallen into the boiling hot pools and to be very careful.

 

 Strokkur is an amazing site as it launches huge jets of water up into the air. Just before each launch a perfectly clear bubble of mineral water forms on its surface. The cold weather means that area around it is often icy and I almost slipped and lost my gloves into the thing. It's also normally surrounded by people trying to take pictures and you have to be quick to catch it.

It’s important to make sure you know which way the wind is blowing before you head towards Strokkur. The best thing to do is watch it erupt from a safe distance first. Otherwise you will end up getting soaked.

As well as Strokkur there are a number of other interesting pools in the Geyser fields. Most of these are boiling hot and contain different coloured water with one blue and one green pool being no more than a few centimetres apart. The different water colouration comes from the pools being formed from water coming from different depths under the ground.

We survived the Geyser field and headed back up into the mountains. After a short stop at the nearby geothermal energy plant, to see how Iceland harnesses the power of its surroundings, we headed back. This effectively brought an end to our journey in the land of fire and ice. In the morning we would be heading to the airport and back home. The snow fell in the night which gave Reykjavik a pretty white glow. It seemed a nice way to remember it.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Venturing into the Golden Circle.

Today, we would be heading into Iceland’s famous Golden Circle. It’s within the circle that most of the natural wonders of the country can be found. These include the numerous snow covered mountains, giant lakes, water falls and geysers. Our first destination was the Pingvellir national park where in 930AD the Alpingi parliament was established.

On the way to our historic destination we stopped to take a look at the impressive mountain ranges. The mountains in Iceland are easily the most impressive panoramic spectacle I have ever come across. Taking in the huge scale was difficult enough for my eyes and a picture certainly can’t convey anything close to the true grandeur of the peaks. You have to see them for yourself to get real sense of the scale.

The sun was still shining brightly as we arrived at the parliament lake area. Here you can walk down into a massive rift in the earth where the American and European tectonic plates are gradually moving apart. The lake area was incredibly beautiful. Water cascades down from a number of small waterfalls and creates channels through the frozen areas of water. Behind the lake the landscape rolls away to far off hills and mountains.

We walked along the rift taking in the glorious sunshine and views. At the far end you can get close to one of the small waterfalls that filter down to the lake. I stood there for a while just watching the water gently flow through its frozen surroundings. There is a lot of history around this area of Iceland but I was much more interested in its scenery. It's just so breath taking and epic.

Eventually, we emerged from the other side of the rift and it was time to head off across the mountains to the Gullfoss falls. Unfortunately, this meant driving towards the rather ominous clouds that were forming on the horizon.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Braving the Night for the Northern Lights.

The chances of seeing the Northern Lights had been poor all week. The activity level was low and weather, for the most part, was cloudy. Tonight however, there was a small chance that the lights would be visible. My girlfriend and I decided it was a chance worth taking and dressed in as many clothes as we could before heading off to chase after them in a rather big bus.

We were driven out into the icy, snow covered wastes away from Reykjavik and into the pitch black. Our first stop arrived and the bus unloaded. Looking up at the sky in the middle of the night out in the wastes was as cold as you might think. With the sky completely clear we looked up and around but could not spot the lights.

Even though we couldn’t see the lights the sky was alive with constellations of pretty stars. We were quite happy watching the stars but, after about an hour, it was time to move on and try to track down the lights somewhere else. Not far down the road we pulled over again. Once more, we all piled off the bus to see very feint Northern Lights up in the sky.

Unfortunately, there was a little light here and a number of stupid people trying to take pictures of the sky with flash photography. This didn’t lend itself to the best place for viewing but we decided to persevere. Once the penny finally dropped that the flash didn’t work we settled in and as our eyes gradually adjusted a curtain of light appeared.

It wasn’t as spectacular as some of the displays you see on television but with such low activity predicted we were happy to see anything at all. The curtain of green began to grow and spread across the sky. Another curtain began to form next to it and for twenty minutes or so they hung in the air shimmering.

Suddenly, the curtain seemed to fall to the ground like a large roll of cloth unravelling. We were incredibly lucky to not only see the lights but to also get an ‘event’. Many people had decided to go back and hide in the warmth of the bus and completely missed it. After the ‘event’, the lights began to disperse and it was decided to return to Reykjavik. On our journey back the long green curtain was still visible across the sky and it seemed to follow us back.

Our journey into the wastes in search of the Northern Lights had proved fruitful and we were glad we had taken the chance. It’s almost impossible to take pictures of the phenomenon without having a super powered camera on a tripod using a half hour exposure time, so if you want to see it for yourself you’ll just have to go.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Through the Lava Fields to the Blue Lagoon.

Day three in Iceland and the rain had finally stopped. I was especially glad that the weather was dryer today as we would be heading out into the countries more rugged and dangerous areas in one of the specially designed all terrain vehicles.

The first port of call for our exploration into the wilds of Iceland was at one of the many black sand beaches along the coastline. This particular beach was used in the film ‘Flags of Our Father’. The black sand dunes created a suitable dramatic effect and the juxtaposition against the crystal clear sea and snow, which was beginning to fall, gave the whole place a kind of unique beauty not easily found anywhere else.

 

With the snow fall gentle, but gradually getting heavier, we headed for a nearby crater. After a short climb my girlfriend and I stood at the top of one of the many volcanic mounds that litter the landscape. Inside the crater different kinds of volcanic rock littered the floor and my girlfriend pointed out the different shades of rich reds and dark browns to me (being partially colour blind I took her word for it).

Looking from the top of the crater across the moon-like terrain it was like being on another planet. Iceland may be cold and harsh but it also has rich and dramatic landscape. After returning from the crater without slicing myself to bits we were meant to be heading to some of the thermal pools that are present all over the country. However, the road to them had been closed due to new fissures and vents of hot steam opening up and making the place far too dangerous.

This acted as a reminder as to just how unpredictable and treacherous it can be out in the wilds. Many reckless tourists end up injured every year in Iceland as they underestimate the power and threat of the ever-changing volcanic landscape. With some time to spare we headed through the fishing village of Grindavik on the way to the Blue Lagoon. The village is an incredibly ugly place and as the harbour was quiet there was little reason to stay for long. Soon we were off towards today’s main event.

The Blue Lagoon is a remarkably beautiful place. The water is blue due to the combination of minerals it filters through on its way to the surface. These minerals and natural clays are incredibly good for your skin. After solving the puzzle of just how the electronic arms tags operate the lockers in the Blue Lagoon changing area, I walked out and almost died from being hit by a minus five degree wind. I tried to take some pictures.

Taking the hint from nearly freezing to death, I realised it would have been smarter to come out fully clothed to take the pictures. Finally, I dropped into the embrace of the warm waters. The lagoon is a wonderfully soothing place to float around in. The stones on the bottom are smooth and the surrounding landscape is stunning. It's a beautiful place.

I could have stayed in the cloudy waters forever and while drifting around watching the steam rise and snowfall I couldn’t think of anywhere else I would have preferred to be. It was easy to drift in the gentle water. The Blue Lagoon also served as the meeting point for the random Dutchman who seems to always turn up abroad. Floating by we exchanged jokes on bicycles and mused about why there is a Dutchman at every location.

We left the warm waters and started on the short walk through the nearby lava fields. Here the blue waters intermingle with the rough volcanic rock and occasional fissures bubble away. As pretty as it was I couldn’t help but wish I was back in the lagoon instead of out in the freezing wind. Our journey through the lava filed came to an end and we headed back to Reykjavik.

Seeing the Blue Lagoon is essential for anyone visiting Iceland. I would quite happily come back to the country and be content to spend all my time just floating around admiring the surroundings. Tomorrow would bring more dramatic landscape as we headed into Iceland’s golden circle in search of waterfalls, mountains and geysers and tonight we would be trying to find the Northern Lights.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: Reykjavik in the Rain.

It was 7am, cold and still raining. I was glad that today would be spent touring Reykjavik as the conditions did not lend themselves to exploring Iceland’s rugged terrain. It may not be the most ornate of cities but Reykjavik it is still a very interesting place to look around.

One thing you are guaranteed to find anywhere in the country is swimming pools. Swimming is the national sport and most of population swim before and after work. Because of the dangerous nature of the landscape all children must learn two different types of swimming as part of their curriculum. All the heated pools in Reykjavik are of an exceptional standard.

Travelling away from the pools and out of the city we went to see some Icelandic horses. These are another of countries institutions with no area in the country, no matter how poor, not having stables.

Heading back into the city we went down to take a look at the main harbour. It has a remarkable view of the mountains and many restaurants situated along it. You can also take sea life viewing trips. I was enjoying the exploration into Icelandic life but the horizontal rain and howling wind on the harbour meant I couldn’t stay there for long. Icelandic fisherman are made of tougher stuff no doubt.

Of more interest to me was looking at the older area of the city. Here there is a mixture of buildings made in various Scandinavian styles. Some are made of wood but as trees don’t really grow in Iceland it has to be imported. If you look closely you will find that the houses are covered in corrugated steel. This protects the wood underneath and stops it rotting away.

Walking down through the old buildings we came out in the square next to the countries parliament. It was here that not very long ago the people rallied and pretty much overthrew the government after the countries financial collapse. Some of the windows are still smashed and they act as a reminder to current government not make the same mistakes.

After a short stop to feed the ducks at the nearby lake we moved on to see the cities giant church. Unfortunately, the huge tower for which it gained it’s fame was in scaffolding but still posed an ominous presence and can be seen from pretty much anywhere in the city. It looks better on the inside. Giant arches lend it a type of magical quality that helps you forget that the place is built out of poor quality concrete. An organist was playing and showed the church also had good acoustics.

Undoubtedly, the best place to go to get a picturesque view of the city is the giant hot water tank known as the Pearl. Walking out onto the viewing platform is to experience an amazing panoramic view. No camera or video can ever do justice to something of such a grand scale. These type of panoramic views are present all over the country and the golden circle I would visit a few days later was even more breathtaking.

I stood admiring the view of the city leading up to the mountains beyond for as long as I could. Eventually the wind and rain got the better of me and I had to retreat inside to regain the feeling in my hands. Leaving the Pearl concluded the short trip around the city. Reykjavik certainly is an interesting place and it has many buildings designed to look unique. However, it does look a bit grey as much of the place is built out of concrete. If you visit make sure to take a trip to the Pearl though. The views from the top are truly amazing and it’s something that could be easily missed.

Entering the Land of Fire and Ice: First Impressions of Iceland.

Coming down through the clouds into Keflavik airport I wasn’t really surprised to see it was raining. Though rain does seem to follow me around the world, it wasn’t the biggest stretch of the imagination to think it might be a bit wet in Iceland at the end of winter.

Airport departed, it was time to take the short trip to Hotel Reykjavik. I was looking forward to being settled in one place for this trip. In China we had been moving on every few days and it soon became tiring. Bounding up to the desk to get the room key it seemed we were not on the list. A few minutes later, with everything resolved we went up to dump cases and get ready to explore the city.

It’s important to note that you can’t get Icelandic Krona outside of the country due to its financial collapse. It’s also important to note that the hotel desks exchange at a fraction of the real rate and that banks shut at 4pm. As I was unwilling to exchange money at 135 to the pound instead of 165 we wandered off and tried to think of some other way to get Krona.

At this moment my girlfriend and I both realised that neither of us had told our banks we were going away. It was a choice of trying out the credit card (which everyone, even hotdog sellers, will take.), or trying the cash machine. In the end we decide the machine was the best option and it didn’t eat the card so all was well.

With new found wealth we wandered in to the city looking for cheap food. Reykjavik’s main street is littered with decent looking restaurants but check the prices. Walking along we noticed a road leading down to the water and A brief detour was made. After negotiating the odd traffic system, we had a magnificent view across the water to the imposing mountains the other side.

Walking along by the waterfront it struck me just how incredibly cold it was and despite the magnificent scenery we had to head back to the main street before rain assisted hypothermia set in. The mountains gave a hint at some of the magnificent scenery we would be seeing in the next few days. A decent (and cheap) meal found we headed back to the hotel with good, if slightly frozen, first impressions.