Tales and Travel in myCornwall magazine..again

Another one of my pictures has been used in the October/November issue of myCornwall magazine.

The article is again written by Rebecca Holden.

Tales and Travel in myCornwall magazine.

A nice return to printed travel magazines here. I was lucky enough to have three photographs featured in the August/September issue of myCornwall magazine.

The article itself is written by Rebecca Holden.

Taking in the Flavour of Sunny San Jose

It is easy to overlook San José in your travels and many travellers to Costa Rica only glimpse it as they head off for some of the country’s other attractions. However, venture into the city and you will find a flamboyant and colourful location filled with friendly people and a friendly, laid back Latin American atmosphere.

San José is a fascinating city with busy market streets and a constant stream of people and traffic. Once you have made your way into the central area there is much to see and do. If you enjoy soaking up the atmosphere of new places and different cultures then it is quite unlike anywhere else as people of all ages sit and enjoy the atmosphere in the many squares and seated areas throughout the day.

The best place to start sightseeing is at the Teatro Nacional. This is the city’s finest historic building and houses a wonderful selection of art and stages performances regularly. Be sure to check out the Coffee Mural on the ceiling between the lobby and the auditorium which is famous due to its quality (and the amount of factual errors portrayed within it). There are also a number of works of art which use clever perspective tricks to create unusual and interesting effects depending on where you are standing in the rooms. The observant will notice angels following viewers around the room and portraits of women mysteriously gaining and losing weight depending on the angle you view them from.

Near the Teatro Nacional, across the Plaza de la Cultura is the subterranean Museo del Oro Precolombino. This gold museum contains a mass of ancient gold artefacts and the national coin collection. It is extremely well done and provides and interesting and useful way of getting out of the beating sun and exploring some of Costa Rica’s history. Dollars or colones are accepted and entry is cheap at between five to nine dollars. 500 Colones is equal to about $1.

Walking down the main street of San José your senses will be assaulted by a feast of colour, music and different smells of food. The city has many designer stores and multiple places to eat ranging from local food such as plantain and spicy rice and beans to more recognisable brands. Along the way down the street are a number of the open areas where people and musicians gather and everything is within easy walking distance.

Near the end of the high street is an indoor market area where many souvenirs can be bought with either dollars or colones. It is somewhat maze-like but is well worth a look. It also contains a number of simple yet excellent food establishments which are good value for money. Here you can get a good sized meal for around 800 colones (Under two dollars).

Eating at one of these places is an experience not to miss and provided one my highlights of the trip. You have a choice of sitting at one big table with other passersby or you can opt for one of the counter seats. Either choice provides a perfect place to observe the semi organised chaos of the busy indoor market area. The food I had was excellent and seemingly never ending as dish after dish of chicken, soup and vegetables kept arriving. There is also an excellent range of the freshest tasting iced fruit juices you have ever had available which really help after a day of walking around in the baking heat.

Another must see sight is the impressive Catedral Metropolitana that overlooks the Parque Central. The cathedral, aside from being an impressive structure contains an elaborate and beautiful altar. The nearby park is punctuated by an enormous towering band stand structure made of four arches which in itself makes an impressive sight to see. I can honestly say that the time I spent in San José was one of the most enjoyable things I have done while travelling. There are a host of other pieces of interesting architecture to sample but the real draw of the place is the atmosphere. My advice to anyone travelling to Costa Rica is to make sure you take the time to experience the capital city.

The Hotel

The place I based myself in was the incredibly beautiful Alta Hotel. It is fairly expensive to stay there (around $149 a night), but you get a beautiful hilltop view across the city and the hotel is designed to blend classic colonial style with a contemporary edge which rivals many of the city’s main architectural buildings. It also has a swimming pool, viewing platform and each room has a balcony. It is a truly a memorable place to stay that made the trip even more memorable.

The hotel does have a restaurant but it is expensive and can be hit and miss with the quality of its food. I would recommend that people staying here take the five minute walk down the hill to the local bar named the Green Onion. The bar is frequented by both local customers and tourists and provides a friendly and lively atmosphere. Decent food can be purchased here for around 3,000 colones and around 800 colones for a drink. It is very friendly and as the night goes on gets ever increasingly lively.

Advice 

When traveling to the country it is important to note that you can’t buy Costa Rican currency outside of its borders. You will either have to carry dollars (which are accepted in most places, though you will get colones back in change and most places won’t take notes bigger than twenties), or find an appropriate currency exchange. Most hotels offer an exchange and the rate will be much better than at the airport. Another thing to recognise is that though San José is warm and friendly, pickpocketing is rife and you should be careful with you possessions. The best thing to do is leave them in hotel room safes if available.

Escaping LA for the Beautiful Waterfront of San Diego.

After spending a few days in Los Angeles my girlfriend and I were desperate for something a bit more laid back. San Diego with its temperate climate, long stretches of beach and water fronts and its cultural appeal seemed like the perfect place to escape to. We headed down to the heavily Latin influenced city looking to find more than a simple stop off between sea world and the zoo. What we found was a friendly and relaxed place with a gentle beauty and style all of its own.

What We Did 

there are undoubtedly a thousand things to do in San Diego but we were looking for something a bit more sedate after the rigours of LA so we decided to follow the waterfront for the morning. San Diego is definitely a city defined by the water around it and by following the road around the sea you will come across much of the charm of the place. Our first stop was down by the historic ships. Here there is a genuine tall ship and also a submarine. The ship used in the film Master and Commander is also held in this area. This provided a nice introduction to the city and as it was fairly early there were few people about. Just standing in the sun watching the joggers go by started to ease the hectic nature that LA has bestowed upon us. Along the front here there are also a number of statues such as the one of the man doing a hand stand.

We continued on to the area just off Harbour drive which has the USS Midway Museum docked just offshore. Here there are a number of statues to commemorate service men returning home. The most famous of these is the statue entitled “Unconditional Surrender” which sees a sailor and nurse embracing and was commissioned to mark the end of world war two. A short distance away from this is a much smaller but equally beautiful bronze piece which shows a sailor returning to his wife and children. This area is somewhere anyone with interest in history should visit, but even if you aren’t interested in war it is still a very moving and welcome addition to the waterfront that is well worth visiting.

Moving away from the waterfront we headed to Balboa Park. This is very close to the zoo but we decided to take a stroll in the midday sun around the lovely park itself. It is set in an old Spanish colonial style with grand buildings and statues of El Cid giving it a distinct and charming personality. There is also an impressive outdoor bowl style performance area, some stunning fountains and a small Botanical garden which is a sea of greens and exotic plants. The Botanical building itself is incredible and opens out into a walk past shallow long ponds filled with lily pads, fish and turtles. With the sun shining it seemed a perfect way to while away a few hours and always offered up something new to see.

In the early afternoon we headed down to the Seaport Village area to get lunch and found the excellent Seaport Village Deli. Walking a short distance to the left of the village gives an excellent view of San Diego’s iconic bridge and allows you to eat lunch in a more open and green area by the bay. On this day there was an arts and crafts market on and a rally for classic cars which all helped add to the character and fun of the place. Trips out to tour the bay can be taken from near here and are around twenty five dollars a person for an hour. A two hour long trip can also be taken which shows both the north and south sides of the bay. We decided to take a one hour trip which gave us a chance to see the city from a different perspective. Along the way we watched sea lions lazing on the dock side and even had dolphins come and bow surf along with the ship. I would highly recommend anyone visiting the city to take at least one boat trip while you are there.

Our final stop of the day was at the Coronado Hotel. It seemed a shame not to look at the world renowned building where the rich and famous go to hide away. The hotel is accessible to the public and you can look around inside if you wish. With the sun always out though it is my advice to walk through the hotel to the amazing white sand beach which stretches a far as the eye can see. The crystal clear waters, blue sky and perfect sand seemed a fine place to spend our last moments in San Diego which had turned out to be a remarkable place and one I will happily return to whenever I can.

Where to Stay 

We stayed at the Sheraton Hotel in Mission Valley. The hotel is located on the outskirts of San Diego near the highway and has a large amount of restaurants and shopping estates near it. Not the prettiest of locations but the hotel itself provided excellent service and very comfortable and spacious rooms. The main area of San Diego can be reached from here by a twelve dollar taxi ride or via the combination of a bus and train which is very straight forward.

Where to Eat 

In our exploration of San Diego, both along the waterfront and around the hotel we found some very good places to eat. In the Seaport Village, amidst the junk food and ice cream there is a very good place to get sandwiches and wraps by the name of the Seaport Village Deli. In order to reach it you simple need to walk straight through the seaport village area until you reach the water and it should be near the building out in the sea on stilts. The food here is both excellent for a lunchtime option and also very reasonable with most options around ten dollars.

When we first left the hotel we weren’t particular confident in finding anything decent to eat. However, there are a whole host of different places in walking distance as well as a supermarket for those wanting to eat a little cheaper. Two places we came across are well worth a look. Both are almost next to each over and can be reached by leaving the hotel and walking left for about five minutes. The first place you will come to is the Mission Valley Café. This is a classic American style restaurant and a place that many of the locals come to. On the nights we stayed at the hotel the place was always busy and it delivers good value honest food. The clam chowder was especially good and everything comes with dinner bread. Be warned that the portion sizes are huge.

Just next door to the mission valley café is the unassuming Fuji sushi bar and grill. We weren’t expecting that much from this place when we went in but the sushi here is absolutely amazing. It is more expensive than the café with each dish of sushi costing around eleven dollars but it really is not to be missed out on. The baked salmon roll was one of the best things I have ever eaten.

http://www.seaportvillage.com/restaurants/ 

 Mission Valley Café 967 Camino Del Rio South San Diego California 92116 http://www.sandiegohomecooking.com/ 

Fuji Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi 911 Camino Del Rio South San Diego California 92108 http://www.ilovefuji.com/

Four places to Lunch in Cornwall: Part 4

Dolly’s Tea House (Falmouth)

http://www.dollysbar.co.uk/

The last place I visited on my travels was the wonderfully unique Dolly’s tea House. Situated along Falmouth high street, the tea house is set upstairs in a beautiful Georgian room.  It’s known for its quirky nature and if you are in the mood to engage you can have a cocktail brought to you from a proper tea pot or experience their flowering range of teas. Hebe, the pearl wearing Labrador may well also come to see you.

Amidst the playful theatre of the venue are some truly wonderful dishes. The best of which I feel is the lemon and crab crumble. I’ve never really had anything like this before but it is an incredibly rich and beautiful tasting concoction.  Served with gorgeous baked bread it is best described as delicately balanced crab pate with spices and a lemon zing. A unique and lovely thing it deserves to be tried upon a visit. Ever since I had it there are few days that pass where I don’t find my mind drifting back to it. It’s one of those dishes that just makes everything better.

Four places to Lunch in Cornwall: Part 3

Sea Drift (Porth Leven)

http://www.seadriftporthleven.co.uk/

One of Porth Leven’s best seafood restaurants, Sea Drift, can have a long waiting list for those looking to eat there at dinner time due to its excellent reputation and limited number of tables. It’s also not the cheapest of places to eat (though there are a number of deals to entice you in). If you’re lucky, wandering along to it during lunchtime may well see you able to sample some of its delights

though.

Everything about the food here is quality. The ingredients, presentation and cooking are all excellent and you can order pretty much anything on the menu with the confidence that it won’t just be good, it’ll be great. You even get beautiful, warm baked bread with your meal. 

There is wealth of options to try and after taking longer than usual on the menu I plumped for the fish chowder. This turned out to be one of the most flavoursome things I have ever eaten. I would go as far as to say that it even beat the sour dough and clam chowder I’ve had in San Francisco.  It’s gorgeous and I recommend to anyone to try it if it appears on the specials board.

While there I also tried Sea Drift’s Mackerel Salad. It’s with dishes like this that you can tell the place is a cut above. What is a fairly standard dish is taken to greater heights through delicate presentation and a superb understanding of how flavours work together. 

The mackerel salad would be a perfect and tasty option for a light lunch if, unlike me, you didn’t want to try out some of their other options as well. For those with a sweet tooth there is also a large selection of cakes but on this fine day I didn’t have enough space left to try any.

Four places to Lunch in Cornwall: Part 2

Rock Inn (Rock)

http://www.therockinnrock.co.uk/

Rock can be an expensive place to eat but you really don’t want to head over to Padstow every time you feel hungry. If it’s big portions and good quality pub style food you are after then the Rock Inn is the place for you. You also have the added bonus of being able to look out over the beach and estuary as you eat from atop their balcony area.

I ordered a burger but what arrived can only be described as a small cow placed between two buns. This was accompanied by a small fields worth of chips and salad. Certainly not a light lunch but one of the best burgers I have had in ages and I didn’t need to eat for a fair while after having it.

Despite a busy lunch period service was also excellent. Members of staff were very friendly and the whole place had a nice relaxed atmosphere. I plan to head back at the earliest opportunity. 

Four places to Lunch in Cornwall: Part 1

Four places to Lunch in Cornwall

Cornwall has many excellent restaurants but they often fill up quickly or are a little too expensive for the everyday holiday goer. There are also a number of excellent and unique café’s to be found in the county. In this article you will find a handful of places that are either very difficult to get into at night or provide something a little different.

The Mermaid (St Ives)  

http://www.mermaidstives.co.uk/

Set just away from the bustling harbour in St Ives is this rather charming French restaurant. Already well known in the area, the Mermaid can be difficult to get into by just walking in off the street. However, turning up for lunch usually allows you to sample the delights of its menu for a reduced price as long as you get there early.

On this visit I decided to try the chorizo chicken. I’m not a fan of chicken normally as I think it often comes across quite bland in many restaurants. At the Mermaid however, everything is done with a craft that means you are always going to get something filled with flavour. As expected the dish was excellent and the spicy sauce and chorizo complimented the chicken perfectly.

For desert I took a gamble and went for the Crème Brulee. Most of the time you can’t get a decent brulee outside of France but this was light and sweet and had been flavoured perfectly. It’s certainly the best example I have found away from French shores and if that isn’t something to be celebrated then I don’t know what is.

The Magic of Cesky Krumlov

Just across the Austrian border, in the Czech Republic lies the Unesco World Heritage site of Cesky Krumlov. Before heading here I’ll admit that I had never heard of the place before. Another rarity was that I hadn’t even done any research on the location and I really didn’t know what to expect. With this in mind it was with a real sense of delight that felt upon entering the imposing fairy tale fortress city. 

Entering under the aqueduct gate, I was presented with a wonderful town fashioned from narrow cobbled streets that climb, twist and fall. There is also a rapid river circling the city filled with canoeists paddling and drifting their way along the river.

Crossing the bridge over the white water I began to search out a route to the imposing castle that overlooks the town. As if bewitched, I followed the sound of pipe music and climbed up to the castle grounds. Guarding the entrance in a dry moat are three bears. As the temperature today was over thirty degrees they had wisely decided to sleep in the shade instead of being on guard duty. It’s worth pointing out that the bears had a huge enclosure and were mainly left to their own devices. There certainly wasn’t anyone forcing them to come out into the heat or do any kind of performance.

Once in the castle grounds it was time to enter the tower and climb the one hundred and fifty or so steps to ge the best view across the city. Most places in the town accept Euros but places such as the castle, tower and museum require Czech currency to enter. None are very expensive and a combined ticket for the museum and castle works out to be about four pounds.

Having enjoyed the views from the top it was time to find somewhere to eat. I stumbled across a place called Papa’s on the winding road back down to the town. Specialising in Italian food, the real treat here is to get a table by the river. Here you can watch the canoeists as they thunder by and shout up to you as they pass. 

As well as the good food and ambience there is a selection of rum based cocktails on offer (the Elderflower one is particularly good). Everything is also decent value with two meals with drinks costing around twenty Euros. Meals with beef as a main ingredient will cost somewhat more however.

There are also cocktail stalls around the town selling a variety of drinks for a stupidly cheap sum. On a warm day like it was it seemed a shame not to invest in a couple and sit down by the river for a while. Drinks drunk and the sun fading it was time to leave this enchanting town. I’d never heard of it before but it proved to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. You really should add it to your list of desired destinations as well.

Annecy for the 150th Fete Du Lac

Annecy is made beautiful by a combination of historical buildings from the Middle Ages and canal networks which snake through the old part of the city. Arcaded streets filled with restaurants and cobbles provide further interest and the banks of the Thiou Canal run down through the city’s main park and out under Lovers Bridge into the crystal clear waters of Lake Annecy. If that wasn’t pleasant enough, the Lake itself is situated against the backdrop of the Alps which dominate the surrounding landscape. Life is also made considerably easier by the fact that everything is within walking distance. Annecy is magical place at any time but I was here for the 150th anniversary of the lake festival or Fete Du Lac, it promised to be an incredibly special day.

The festival would come later that evening but my first stop of the day was at Les Gorges du Fier which lies ten kilometres away near the small village of Lovagny (buses are available from Annecy, take the line #1 to Poisy then change for #12 to Lovagny. From the bus stop to the Gorges du Fier you'll have to walk about 1km). The Gorge is navigated by walking on a network of metal platforms attached to the sides of it. It is a little difficult to navigate for someone not totally at ease with heights (like myself), but it creates an impressive sight as you hear the roar of the water and then look down to find it raging below you.

 As you continue through the gorge there are a number of things to look for, such as ghostly faces in the rock and the local legend that surrounds it. It is a wonderfully enchanting place and very easy to believe it hosts enchantments and magic within its boundaries. The small entry fee of 5 euros makes it an unmissable place to visit for a few hours. The 13th century Château de Montrottier, is located nearby for those wishing to continue their exploration of the local legends.  Both the Gorge and Chateau are open daily but check opening times as they vary between seasons.

Annecy

As well as the general ornate beauty of the city, Annecy also has a couple of places of historical interest. Situated in the old town is the castle built originally in the eleventh century by the Prince of Savoy. Parts of the castle are of different ages but it is well worth a look. Aside from the towers it also houses a number of different art exhibitions which range in subject matter but are generally modern in theme. At my time of visiting they had a massive animation exhibition on show. Entry to the castle is 4.90 euros. A double ticket can also be bought which lets you into both the castle and the Palais de I’lle for around 6.50 euros (the other notable historical building to visit in Annecy).

The Palais de I’lle is the symbol of Annecy and is a small prison constructed in the 17th century in the middle of one of the canals. The building is connected to the banks by two small bridges and resembles a small chateau. It is impossible to miss as you wander the streets and helps give the place yet more unique charm and character.

Where to Eat 

There are no shortage of restaurants and food outlets in Annecy, but my personal recommendation is the excellent ‘Bleu de toi’ creperie. It is located a few metres away from the canal bridge which overlooks the Palais de I’lle at Place St-Francois. It's a perfect place to get lunch and large amounts of ice-cream. The menu is very reasonable with stuffed pancakes between six and nine euros. Furthermore, unlike many of the restaurants in Annecy they serve food all day and not just between 12 and 2. Being situated just away from the main mass of people also makes it easier it find a place to sit.

 The Fete Du Lac The Fete Du Lac is a festival held every year on the first weekend in August to celebrate the city's relationship with the lake and people flock from all over Europe to attend it. Despite this I did not find any trouble getting a parking space a few hundred metres away from the lake near the justice building. It is also worth noting that while Annecy was busier than usual there was never any problem getting into places. The festival takes the form of a massive fireworks display across the lake set against thematic music and the impressive backdrop of the Alps. It is important to note that the park area near the lake is completely closed and emptied at the time the event begins to draw near. In order to experience the display inside the barriers you need to buy a ticket, these range massively in price but a place can be purchased on the grass for as little as eight euros and there were still tickets available up to about an hour before the show started. Tickets can be bought from tourist information or in advance from the Annecy website (www.annecy.fr/).

If you don’t get a ticket there isn’t much to worry about as you can see the main fireworks display clearly from the roadside and many people choose this option instead. The display itself was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen. Lasting an hour, the sky was continually lit up with the most amazing array of colourful explosions which continued to impress from start to incredible finish. The music ranged from movie themes to classic and nautical numbers and was a great accompaniment to the perfectly choreographed fireworks. The display was made all the more spectacular by the reflections shimmering on the lake and the imposing mountain range. When the show finally came to a finish the whole place erupted in applause and everyone knew they had just witnessed something truly special. For anyone who loves the spectacular it was simply the only place to be on that night.

 Where to Stay 

It is a good few Kilometres away from Annecy but by far the best value place I have found to stay in the Savoy region is the campsite near Chamonix named Camping Du Glacier d'Argentier. The campsite offers decent facilities such as clean showers, toilets and electrical points. The rate is astoundingly cheap with a pitch costing twenty-two euros a night for three people, two tents and a car. Absolutely unbelievable considering it is located in a key tourist spot and it was the height of the summer season. There are transport links to Annecy via the train station in Chamonix. For those looking to stay closer to Annecy (or not enthusiastic about the idea of camping), there are a wealth of charming and ornate hotels to choose from. Hotel Splendid and Hotel Du Nord are two such hotels. They both offer comfortable rooms at reasonable prices which will allow you experience the charms of the city without travelling from the Chamonix Valley.

Contacts

Les Gorges du Fier 74330 LOVAGNY FRANCE Tel : +33 (0)4 50 46 23 07 Fax : +33(0)4 50 09 85 37 http://www.gorgesdufier.com

Montrottier Castle 74330 Lovagny FRANCE Phone :33 (0)4 50 46 23 02 Fax : 33(0)4 50 46 11 48 http://www.chateaudemontrottier.com

Bleu de toi 2, place ST-Francoise 74000 Annecy

A Few Days in Paris: Part 2

 Morning, and my girlfriend and I headed for the palace at Versailles. The weather was incredibly hot and we decided not to look around inside but instead go directly into the gardens. Even though it felt like we were going to melt we wandered around looking at the ornate water fountains.

Versailles really isn’t for everyone and in my opinion it does lack in terms of general prettiness. The gardens are huge but they are mainly made of huge hedge rows, long stretches of grass and white gravel.

In the afternoon we headed back into Paris to take a cruise down the river. You will be fighting to get on a boat with hundreds of other people, but it's well worth doing as you get to see the city from a different viewpoint. Our short cruise over we headed out of the city for a few hours to wait for the sun to drop. Later that night we would be coming back into Paris to experience its wonderful lights.

By far the best place to go as the sun begins to set is to the top floor of the Montparnasse tower. It’s the tallest building in the city and on a clear day you can see for miles around giving you the perfect view of the sun set. Watching the sun gradually set behind the Eiffel Tower is something that I will remember for the rest of my life. It’s moments like this that give Paris its reputation for being such a magical place.

The sun set, we hurried back to the roof of the theater for the best view of the Eiffel Tower. The tower comes alive at night with lights but if you head over when it’s completely dark it has a surprise in store. Every hour, after darkness falls, a light display makes the tower sparkle. It’s an amazingly pretty sight to behold and something many people don't know about.

Suitably impressed, it was time to head back to the hotel and then home in the morning. I left Paris finally feeling like I had really seen what it had to offer. Paris is my favourite city and really is a stunning and unique place.

A Few Days in Paris: Part 1.

I've been to Paris a few times over the years. However, I have never really been able to spend more than a couple of hours in the city. With a spare weekend around the corner I decided that now was the time to really see what it had to offer.

My journey to Paris was incredibly long and took in the delights of Wimbledon, Slough, Kingston and Maidstone. Coaches are certainly not for the impatient but they are cheap. After my five hour tour of the suburbs of London I arrived at Dover and headed across the ocean to my waiting hotel were the morning would bring about extensive touring, wandering and marvelling.

Sun risen and temperature suitably warm, I headed into a remarkably calm and empty Paris to gaze upon the Arc de Triomphe. The structure has some amazing carvings and it's an incredibly piece of architecture.

The tour continued and next up was the iconic Eiffel Tower. The best view of the tower and grounds leading up to it are from the roof of the theatre nearby. There isn’t much you can say about one of the most well known landmarks in the world. It looked nice in the sun with the fountains and set against a blue sky but I was looking forward to returning at night to see the tower lit up.

My brief stop finished it was time to take in the glory of Napoleon’s Mausoleum. Amazingly the roof is made completely out of solid gold. I stopped for second to work out just how big a helicopter would be needed to steel it. There are wonders hidden all around Paris in unexpected places. For instance, next to the opera house is an apartment store. Look inside it and you will find ornate balconies leading up to an amazing glass ceiling.

Speaking of glass I decided it was time to start the long walk down to the legendary Notre Dame. The place is incredibly imposing and it’s easily one of the most impressive and dramatic cathedrals in Europe. Inside are the fabled glass windows. Their beauty and depth of colour can’t be accurately captured by any camera. Make sure you leave some time to see it for yourself as Notre Dame can be tricky to reach.

The sun falling, it was time to enter the Monmartre district of the city, famous for its artists and street performers. It’s a lively place in the evening and you can get portraits done, eat at one of the lively restaurants or check out the impressive Church of the Sacred Heart that overlooks Paris from a high viewpoint. The acoustics of the church are truly amazing.

It had been a long day and tomorrow would see me heading to the palace at Versailles before returning to the main part of the city to see Paris by night. It promised to be very special.

A Guide to Shanghai

Shanghai is a city that really can assault the senses after a long flight and so it proved this time. Straight off the plane I was hit by the utter chaos of this fascinating place. I would advise anyone travelling here to get to your hotel and just take a minute to breathe. The other thing you must do is pick up a map which is written in both English and Chinese. That way if you get lost you need only hail one of the many taxis and show the driver the location you are trying to get to.

Shanghai is a real Russian doll of a city with wonders hidden inside wonders. It is also a very friendly place, even walking the streets late at night there was never any feeling that I was in any danger. I was staying at the Zhao An Hotel, which is near the financial centre. The hotel represents good value for money with prices ranging from around fifty pounds a night for a standard room, with breakfast added for as little as four pounds. The staff were very helpful and more than happy to assist me. A tunnel to the metro line is located right next door, but I found the easiest way to get around was by using the very reasonably-priced taxis, which the staff will order if you ask.

Recovered from the flight I felt far better equipped to take on the city. Visibility was poor so I headed down to the famous Nanjing Road, which is walking distance from the Bund River and acts as Shanghai’s equivalent of London’s Oxford Street. The next day I was craving something a little more cultural and headed for the wonderful Jade Buddha Temple, which is hidden deep within the skyscrapers of the city.

Fully in use, the temple was busy with worshippers and filled with unique smells of burning scent. This was the kind of place I was hoping still existed in China. Finding such delicate beauty within the Shanghai sprawl was a welcome sight. Its unique architecture and atmosphere should be explored by everyone and it remains a remarkably calm location in a such a busy city.

Continuing my search for the ancient I headed to the Old Street area. Much of Shanghai looks European having been owned by various nations over the years but Old Street is irrepressibly Chinese. Amid the trees filled with red wishes and lanterns, street musicians provided a suitable movie soundtrack. It was still raining but there’s something about water and Chinese style roofs that go together. I stood and watched as the rain drops fall from the ornate rooftops in the way they can only do in the East.

Hidden inside the Old Street area is the lovely Yu Garden. Reached by crossing a zig-zagging bridge that passes by an ancient tea house, the garden is made of many different sections. The theory behind it is that evil spirits can only travel in straight lines and dividing up the garden safeguards against them. It also allows for observers to take in and appreciate each small area. The Yu Garden really is a master work and the use of stone, water, buildings and plants create something incredibly delicate, peaceful and subtle, yet painstakingly detailed and enthused with an essence that could only be Chinese.

Chinese gardens are unlike any others in the world and the Yu Garden is one of the best examples. As the sun set the rain stopped and for the first time I was able to take in Shanghai without my hood up. The rain had also cleared the smog and it seemed a perfect opportunity to take in the city by night.

The best place to see the city lit up is from the Jin Mao Observation Tower. The tower is one of the tallest buildings in the world and offers perfect views. To get into the tower you need only turn up and buy a ticket on the ground floor. Make sure you check before heading for the tower that the lights are on. Due to the electrical drain the skyscrapers have on the power grid, the lights are only turned on at weekends and specific days. They are also turned off at around 10pm. At the top of the tower the neon stretched far into the distance and left me awestruck at the scale of it. With the air now much clearer I decided to head down to The Bund for an alternative view of Shanghai’s lit up financial district.

The next day is was time to leave. Instead of getting a taxi to the airport I took the Maglev Train. This is no ordinary train and reaches 433 Kilometres an hour at top speed. Understandably, it didn’t take long to reach the airport.

If you feel you need a little help exploring China I would recommend going on one of Travelsphere’s excellent guided tours of the country. They are a class apart when it comes to these tours and excellent value for money. The first time I went to China I went with them.

The Bluebells of Christmas Common

Christmas Common is an area of outstanding natural beauty located near Stokenchurch. It comprises of woodland and multiple walks over a large area. There are also a number of outstanding viewpoints which let you see for miles over the fields and settlements below. The highlight of Christmas Common is the mass of bluebell flowers that grow there for a few weeks every spring. They are incredibly beautiful and create one of the thickest carpets of flowers I have found in the UK.

The way the trees overhang the delicate bells often creates a stunning layer effect of light as sun beams dance between the leaves and branches, often casting shadows on the ground. Heading up to the common on a sunny day really is a wonderful thing to behold and it can’t help but conjure images of pixies and other magical creatures hiding among the foliage.

It’s remarkable just how dense the bluebells are and they often seem to stretch off into the distance as far as the eye can see. In some areas you can barely see the ground because the flowers are so densely packed together. Away from the wooded area containing the glorious bluebells is a magnificent view over the countryside. On a clear day you can see for miles around. The surrounding fields also contain a number of rare wild flowers.

Christmas Common is one of the most beautiful places in the country during the late spring period. On a warm day there is nowhere better than to come and enjoy a stroll through magical woodland with a floor painted with swaying blue flowers. The best time to go is late afternoon as when the sun begins to fall it creates a kaleidoscope of rich colours and shadows.

 Christmas Common is often busy with artists and painters joining dog walkers and people out for a picnic. However, because it is such a massive place you can always find a quiet spot to relax in the sun. Anyone who lives near the area should explore it for themselves at their next opportunity.

Food in Brugge

This right here is a beautiful thing. A warm chocolate waffle with chocolate sauce,cream and cherries.

Historic Warwick in the Rain

It was raining but I was determined to do something interesting while my girlfriend and I both had a day to spare. Warwick isn’t far away and I had never been there so we set off and hoped the weather wouldn’t turn too bad.

Dominating Warwick is the impressive castle. It was a busy day with lots of tourists. It made things a little difficult in getting around but the atmosphere helped to keep my mind off the rain. Today, there were lots of events running and the castle grounds were filled with tents and people dressed in medieval armour. I caught one group of soldiers taking about Chelsea, which broke the spell somewhat.

The first event we went to see was a man flying some eagles. Despite the rain there was a large crowd and we all watched as Archie the eagle flew around high in the sky. He truly was a remarkable creature. After a protracted game bout of hunting for hotdogs we headed off to the river to watch a re-enactment of the storming of the castle. What this equates to is a bunch of ageing men hitting each other with sticks.

Bored of watching people fight we headed down the side of the river towards the castle’s waterwheel. Even in the poor weather the waterway is very pretty and provided a calm moment away from the mass crowds. The crowds were becoming a bit much to cope with so we headed out into the town. Among the ugly new buildings are quite a few older structures that still hold the character and feel of old world Britain.

Warwick is also home to a rather imposing church which can be seen from just about everywhere in the town. Today it was closed for services so we decided to walk down the road to the old shop area. Away from the new high street are quite a few antique and art shops taking residence in the old buildings. It’s worth a look but we soon decided to return to the castle to attempt to climb the ramparts.

The rain was still coming down but we marched up the very steep and windy stone staircase to the top of the Warwick castle tower. The view from the top is impressive and the dark skies made it even more dramatic.

After a day spent walking in rain we were beginning to get a little tired. It began to get late and we snuck out to return home before the mass of crowds decided to exit. It was an interesting trip to one of Britain’s most historic towns and worth a visit. I would wait for better weather before I go back again though.

A Short Trip to Hambledon Lock

Hidden away in the small village of Aston in Berkshire is Hambledon Lock. One of many locks along the Thames, it is open to the public free of charge and even has a free car park situated a couple of minutes walk away.

My girlfriend and I went to the lock after a few days of heavy rain and the water levels were uncharacteristically high. The higher water level made the cascades even more dramatic than usual. Hambledon Lock is a good place just to stand for a while and watch the water flow. On sunny days there are often artists and writers perched along it taking in the scenery and listening to the sounds of the water.

It doesn’t take long to walk across the interconnected bridges of the lock and cross over the river. Once at the other side you can head off in whichever direction you wish along the calmer stretch of the Thames. Hambledon’s surroundings are a little less dramatic than the cascades of water and consist of pretty fields and small areas of woodland. On a sunny day it’s perfect for a leisurely stroll along the river.

Today was a little wet to go traipsing across the farmland and due to the high water level much of it was flooded anyway. However, it did allow for a dramatic sky filled with clouds and rich colours.

The short stop over, we wended our way back along the metal bridges and out of the lock. Hambledon Lock may not seem the obvious choice for a visit but it is free and is the perfect place to start walks along the Thames from. If you are in the Berkshire area it’s well worth a look.